Rajasthan is blessed with various communities that are
engaged in some sort of art and craft for several centuries. One such community
is Chhipa community of Rajasthan. The members of this community are engaged in
block printing for several generations. So skilled are these artisans in their
art that even the modern machine-printed textiles could not hamper their
success. Though it did negatively impact the demand for traditionally
hand-printed textiles, the artisans
soon modified the designs to pace with the time.
Earlier limited only to the
rural or traditional Rajasthan attire, the artisans also started using these
block prints on modern wear like kurtis. Encouraged by the success of their
endeavor artisans also started using block prints on western wears like skirts
and tops. It helped a long way in reviving this ancient traditional technique
of hand printing.
Water has to play a vital role in the whole process of hand
block printing. Most of the hand block hubs can be found near like Bagru,
Barmer, Sanganer Akola, Jodhpur etc. Out of the above Sanganer is the most prominent center of
hand block printing.
In fact, Sanganer is the name synonymous with hand block
printing. Many people believe that the origins of hand block printing in
Rajasthan can be traced to Sanganer region. In fact Sanganer prints were
exported to European countries as early as 16th and 17th centuries.
In fact some legends say that the repetitive wars between
Mughals and Marathas affected Gujarat very badly and there was turmoil. It had
an obvious effect on art and economy too. Thus Gujarati artists decided to
migrate to a place that is not very far from Gujarat and is full of peace.
Rajasthan was the natural choice as Rajputs has amicable relations with Mughals
and thus there was a great amount of peace here as compared to many other
states.
But Gujarat artists got more than what they required. Being
connoisseur themselves, the Rajput kings were impressed by the artistic
excellence of Gujarati artisans and craftsmanship. The rulers wholeheartedly
patronize them and allowed them to live in Sanganer. Hand block printing was
very famous in Gujarat too. So in the collaboration of Gujarati artisans the
local artisans of Rajasthan developed their own local printing patterns and
techniques. Over a period of time they evolved and developed unique techniques
that resulted in refined designs matching the highest standards of aesthetics.
Sanganeri prints make the finest use of floral designs and
are characterized by fine lines combined with intricate detailed pattern.
Geometric designs are equally used for deigning.
The prints re dyes using only the natural colors that add a
unique "organic" look of the textiles.
One of the most famous styles of Sanganer is Calico print
that is used in Block Printed Cotton Kurtis, quilts,
saris and bed covers. This is a very demanding yet creative process. The
artisans first print the outlines and then they carefully fill in the colors to
present the most aesthetically refined look. Using bold patterns the printing
process is repeated in diagonal rows.
The Rajputs were closely associated with Mughals. In fact
inter-marriages were also common between Rajputs and Mughals. So one can see mughal
influence on Rajasthan’s art too and hand block printing is not an exception
here. There are many elaborate, fine designs heavily influenced by Mughal
School of art.
Hand block printing is used on various products including
but not limited to:
·
Traditional sarees
·
Dupattas (Indian veil-like cloth piece worn on
traditional Salwar suits and kurtis)
·
Salwar-kameez
·
Curtains
·
Bed cover
·
Scarves
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